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 BY KATRINA SZISH
| | | SPRING 2010: THE UNEXPECTED LIGHTNESS OF BEING | |  | | | | | As is the natural order of things, during every New York fashion week the most wearable, saleable trends readily float to the top - those inspirations, silhouettes and palettes that designers inexplicably seem to agree upon, as if some mystical fashion faerie has whispered the very same words of commercial wisdom in their ears.
And Spring 2010 did not disappoint with its takeaway trends: All things khaki (perhaps an extension of this Fall’s love affair with camel?), the most memorable incarnation being Alexander Wang’s two-toned trousers crafted of classic cotton juxtaposed with gray workout-wear fleece. Saturated Spring florals were anything but wallflowers. Nanette Lepore, Derek Lam and newcomer Christian Cota - top on my list of one to watch - offered rich blossom-printed dresses that will undoubtedly get plucked up by retailers. Ruffles fluttered down many a runway, both the expected (breathtaking bright gowns at Oscar de la Renta) and the unexpected (sporty tank dresses at Y-3).
On the opposite end of the spectrum were slashes, cut-outs and zippers that carried forth the fierce, fearlessness of Fall - the strongest statement being from Yigal Azrouël - yet many designers approached it with a kinder, gentler hand. Max Azria’s well-placed slits brought chic sophistication to simple black sheaths, and Michael Kors softened by casting hardware and calculated cuts in his self-described “optimistic” palette of glacier blue and wisteria. Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen opted for a different twist on cut-outs, offering a refreshing array of lattice-work jackets. | |  Jason Wu | | | | | | | | Shoes remained architectural, perilously platformed and utterly bootie-licious (make a beeline for Proenza Schouler’s wedge-heeled lace-ups). And ladies, let the lunges begin, because short-shorts and minis were manifold whether full-skirted or curve hugging (you name the designer, they likely had minis), so make sure your gams have game come Spring.
| | | | | | |  Michael Kors | |  Marc Jacobs | | | | | | | | But the fashion faerie seemed even more zealous this season, leaving behind one of the most memorable and far-reaching impressions I have witnessed in all of my twenty-seven seasons covering New York Fashion Week: there was an aura of buoyancy, whimsy, even a giddiness that seemed to have infected designers - despite the somber economic times to which we’ve grown accustomed - that manifested with a watershed of fluff, flou, float, feathers and flutter. | | | | | | |  Oscar de la Renta | | Bloomers abounded! Tulle transfixed! Short circle-skirts swished! Petticoats poufed! The message even made it to Marc Jacobs who finally woke up from his 80s coma and outfitted models in feminine, fanciful frills (albeit often toned down with a must-have military jacket), in what proved to be one of his best collections in several seasons.
There was an overarching sense of both nostalgia and enthusiasm, perhaps best expressed by Peter Som - back in action after last season left him sans financial backing - who described his vision as “extreme happiness.” His collection elicited just that, with retro hats and sunglasses, topping coquettish dresses made modern with whimsical embellishments, sparkle and shine.
Upon experiencing this uplifting display at New York Fashion Week, it’s impossible not to wonder - or perhaps even hope - that these determined designers are predicting something much more significant than just next season’s trends. | | | | | | | | |
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