Fresh Catch: Eddie V’s | SPECIAL Dallas

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The calamari -- ideal for happy hour.

"They are pretty sensitive," says Foles. "You have to be right on top of it. It's kind of like making whipped cream or a dome pudding. It's a delicate fluff and fry."

Thankfully, the signature Bananas Foster, a dense sugary flambe confection that serves two or three, is always on the menu.

There are steaks too -- grain-fed Midwestern beef for the carnivores in your party -- but our waiter steered us toward the fish, which is clearly the main attraction.

To sample Eddie V's, check out discounted drinks and appetizers during happy hour in the V Lounge nightly from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. The array of starters features lots of plates of oysters, crab, calamari, tuna tartare and a signature "tower" of iced shellfish for two to four people.

Eddie V's staff has clearly been vaccinated against the casual dress virus that has infected the culture at so many levels. The patrons, alas, have not, and it's a bit paradoxical when the thicket of waiters in crisp white jackets, shirts, black bow ties and slacks look more polished than many of the customers.

The uniforms set the tone for staff, Foles said.

"We wanted to take the classic waiter's outfit from years back and dress them up and make them feel like a professional waiter," he said. "We want them to look like it and feel like it and play the part of it. It's almost like putting on a show."

Find Eddie V's at 4023 Oak Lawn Ave. next to Equinox.

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